Owners of E30 M3s, the first model to wear that iconic designation were reacting to the cover that profiled a story about the soon-to-be-released-third-generation M3. “The Real M3 Shows Up In Geneva,” it said. “A real M3 has four cylinders,” they fired back, even if no one was in earshot.

Never mind that the new M3 coupe packs a 333-horsepower jewel of an engine in a package that will crank out sub-five second 0-60mph runs all day and out-corner its predecessor, an automotive masterpiece that Car and Driver magazine called “the best-handling car in America.” That’s not the point. The point is that newer M3s, in the E30 owners’ perspective, lack the gritty character and all-out-racer spirit of their much beloved cars. Lest you think these ardent loyalists are being unduly critical of the newest M3, many of them label the second-generation model, with its decidedly understated styling, the 332is.

What gives these owners such zeal? A lot of it has to do with the reason their car was built. “It was a special car built in a special time for a special purpose,” says Filippo Morelli, a New Jersey Chapter member, “real” M3 owner, and host of the E30 M3 Special Interest Group, an internet spiritual home that claims more than 600 congregants. “Such events occur only a few times in the life of a company.”

A Genuine Race Car For The Street

That special purpose Morelli refers to was preparing the E30 3 Series two-door sedan – but back then this model wasn’t called a coupe – to race in the German and European touring car series, that side of the Atlantic’s moral equivalent of NASCAR, where manufacturers duked it out for technology, image, and sales supremacy. The rules stipulated that a carmaker had to build a minimum of 5,000 examples in twelve months of the exact car it wanted to race and offer them for public sale. That amounted to selling detuned, road-going race cars, minus the roll cage, sponsor decals, and a few other racing pieces. Similar regulations in the 1960s produced some spectacular – not to mention historically significant and highly collectable – cars, such as the Ferrari 250 GTO and 250 LM and the Europe-only BMW 3.0CSL.

The goal was to be ready to race for the 1987 season. BMW’s high-performance subsidiary, then called BMW Motorsport GmbH (German legal shorthand for business with limited liability) went into action in late 1983. Thomas Ammerschlager, formerly of the Zakspeed race team and Audi, assumed command of the project in 1985. Called the M3, the result was nothing short of a complete make-over of a standard 3 Series. Giving the new car instant credibility was the fact that every modification was done with one purpose in mind: racing.

Wider fenders, front air dam, a new roof and rear window, a raised (plastic) trunk lid and large rear wing cleaned-up the E30’s aerodynamics, made room for a proper roll cage, accommodated wider racing wheels and tires, and gave the M3 a decidedly serious look. In fact, the hood is the only body panel the M3 shares with the 3 Series. Major suspension, brake and steering modifications made the M3 a genuine apex-strafer.

A team led by Werner Frowein – under the watchful eye of BMW’s legendary engine designer Paul Rosche – provided power by capping a cast-iron four-cylinder Formula 2 engine block with a sixteen-valve twin-cam aluminum cylinder head – one made from an M1 head by literally chopping off two cylinders. Other tweaks included a competition oil sump, special pistons, and a new version of BMW’s Motronics engine-management system. Large for a four-banger, the 2.3 litre S14 engine produced 200 horsepower in European trim. A later version increased horsepower to 215.

An Instant Hit

The M3 debuted as a prototype at the1985 Frankfurt Auto Show. Despite concern on the part of some BMW executives that its design was too aggressive, Motorsport had firm orders for the initial batch of 5,000 before the show closed ten days later. Those customers had to be patient; M3s were not delivered in Europe until autumn of 1986. Then came the unexpected announcement that, after considerable arm-wrestling between BMW of North America and the powers in Munich, a limited supply of M3s would make their way to the US.

About 5,300 E30 M3s were sold here between 1987 and 1992. Throughout the production run, the mechanical specifications of US cars remained virtually unchanged; our catalyzed and federalized version of the S14 engine produced 192 horsepower and 170 ft-lb of torque, good enough for a top speed of 147 mph and a 0-60mph time of 6.9 seconds. EPA certification red tape denied us the pleasures of the close-ratio five-speed manual gearbox; we had to make do with a competent but less sporty Getrag overdrive five-speed transmission.

Eventually 17,184 E30 M3’s were produced between Sept.1986 and Dec 1990. Six special versions were built, the most desirable being the Sport Evolution with an enlarged 2.5 litre, 238 horsepower engine and trademark adjustable front aerodynamic splitter and rear wing “Gurney flap.” Sadly, none of those limited-edition models – and none of the 786 enticingly gorgeous M3 convertibles – were ever officially imported here.

BMW Motorsport prepared about 100 M3s for factory and private racing and rally teams. Countless other road-going versions have been pressed into competition duty around the world. The E30 M3 more than achieved its primary mission; it became the most successful touring car racer in history, winning the World (driver’s title) and European, German, British, Italian, French, Belgian, and Dutch touring car championships – as well as countless other national and regional racing, rally and hillclimb series.

“Boy Racer” Raises Hackles

US auto journalists raved about the M3, Car and Driver, in its November 1987 issue, observed, “The M3 leaps through the corners like a cat, its feisty engine spinning and splitting until you snatch another gear or the rev limiter grabs it by the tail. Excellent controls help you keep the frenzy in check; the steering is supple and superbly accurate, the shifter has just the right amount of notchiness, and the massive disc brakes – vented in front and equipped with a standard anti-lock system – are always on duty, lap after lap.”

In a February 1988 road test, Road & Track said, “This is what driving is all about. The engine, when revved hard, shoots the car from turn to turn….This is as close most owners will come to participatory motorsports, and this is what this car was designed to do.” And AutoWeek summed it up by saying, “The M3 is a hardball player.”

Most road testers commented on the four-cylinder engine’s buzzy nature, especially when compared to the traditionally silky-smooth BMW in-line sixes they were accustomed to. Then there is the “boy racer” comment, something that really gets M3 owners’ hackles up. Some journalists make this snide observation when they refer to the M3’s bodywork, insinuating that they fenders, spoiler, side skirts and wing are merely “eye candy” add-ons. For those who understand why the car appears the way it does, the comment is not only galling, it conclusively demonstrates the writer’s lack of perspective and grasp of automotive history. Many E30 M3 owners believe it would be more appropriate to apply the “boy racer” tag to the new M5 and M3.

What To Look For When The Urge Strikes

Although it is difficult to determine how many E30 M3s have survived in the US, it’s safe to say that most have found a good home where they are appreciated and looked after. Their sub-$20,000 price makes them a relative bargain for someone looking for a genuine performance car with an interesting history. With that in mind, we contacted Windy City Chapter’s Ben Thongsai, widely regarded as one of the top M3 go-to guys in the country, for guidance on what to look for when the urge to park a piece of BMW racing history in your garage strikes. He should know; he owns two and services several others.

“I love my M3s,” he says. “They’re a lot like my 2002, only much faster! They are very reliable.” Thongsai bought his first example with 19,000 miles. “It ran great,” he says, “and needed very little work.” He advises you to begin your evaluation by looking at the car’s maintenance history. Ask to see repair order. “Regular maintenance on an E30 M3 is important,” he adds. “Preventative maintenance is, too.”

Once you’re satisfied with the paperwork, it’s time for an inspection. Check the condition of the water pump (usually a 60,000 mile item) and the alternator mounting brackets (for cracks) and their bushing (for wear); check the brackets for the power-steering pump and the air-conditioning compressor, too. The original alternator ground strap had a tendency to break. If it is brown, it’s the original and should be replaced; a red strap is the upgraded part. Inspect the motor mounts and the sub-frame they attach to for wear and damage. Don’t be surprised if one or both wires for the electric cooling fan are broken; the good news is that’s a quick fix. Look for leaking or excess play in the steering rack, an M3-specific part.

The time-honored service manager’s retort – “They all do that” – can be applied to M3 intake manifold gaskets: They are prone to crack and cause a vacuum leak. The most noticeable symptom of cracked gaskets is a rough idle. Merely replacing them won’t solve the problem; eventually the new gaskets will crack, too. But fear not: Korman Autoworks offers a solution. Visit their website at www.kormanfast.com and read about their heavy-duty air accumulator support in the E30 M3 “induction” section.

The Timing Chain Issue

There are some trans-Atlantic difference of opinion among M3 experts about the longevity of the S14 engine’s timing chain. The good folks at Munich Legends, the UK’s leading E30 M3 authority, believe that the chain and its two sprockets should be replaced at 100,000 miles, based on failures they’ve seen. It’s a pricey operation – about $1,000 – but if a worn or stretched chain jumps a sprocket tooth, you can multiply that bill almost by six for new valves, cylinder head machining, and at least one piston – if you’re lucky.

The story in the US, however, is somewhat different. For whatever reason, chain failures are rare here. While no one debates the merits of replacing the chain on a 100,000 mile car if the engine is apart for other reasons, Thongsai and others don’t see a need to do it on a healthy car.

Listen and Save

Fortunately, in most cases there is an early warning to such an occurrence. Listen for the timing chain when you start the engine, especially when it’s cold. If the chain makes a racket – trust us, it’s hard not to hear it! – for a second or two and then quiets down, it’s probably good-to-go. A constant noise, the sooner the better. Although it may be folklore, many M3 owners advice against parking the car with its nose uphill; they say it allows oil to drain out of the chain tensioner, which then causes the chain to rattle.

While you’re listening, aim an ear in the direction of the clutch and gearbox at idle. If the chatter you hear goes away when you depress the clutch, “that’s just the normal Getrag transmission sound; don’t worry about it,” Thongsai. But if you hear a noise with the clutch pedal pushed in, it’s probably the throw-out bearing about to surrender.

Oddly enough, for a car designed to race, the original M3 suffers from inadequate front-brake cooling, especially in enthusiastic use like BMW CCA driving schools. That’s why many owners have replaced their crack-prone fog lights with brake-cooling ducts. Check for warped or scarred brake rotors and the calliper condition at all four corners.

On your walk around the car, Thongsai advises you to look for body damage or shoddy repair work. “The only body panel on the M3 that’s the same as the 3 Series is the hood. Replacements are expensive,” he notes. Also check for rust on the cowl at the bottom of the windshield, especially in the corners. Unfortunately, the paint on the upper surface of the rear wing tends to craze, especially on Cinnabar Red cars; bringing it back to life can be a $500 proposition. Also check the wing itself for signs of fatigue or cracking – they actually do generate downforce.

A Stock M3? You Must Be Kidding

Given the nature of the E30 M3 and the enthusiasm of most owners, it should not come as a surprise that there are precious few completely stock examples left. From upgrading the interior panels to the cloth Motorsport-striped variety found in the Cecotto, Ravaglia, and Sport Evolution version to engine-management chips to major engine and chassis modifications, M3 drivers can’t seem to resist the urge to tinker. Thongsay likes the way the Conforti engine management chip makes the engine much less peaky, supplying more power to the mid and low rev ranges. “It gives the M3 some decent pull at 2,500rpm,” he says. Modifications done by competent M3 technicians using parts from reputable sources are usually not a problem, he adds. On the other hand, although it is suitable as a serious BMW CCA driving school car, he cautions against buying an M3 with an overly stiff suspension for your daily driver.” A suspension like that will be hard on you and the chassis, especially if you live in a place with lots of potholes,” he says. Of course, many modifications are as much a matter of taste as engineering.

Other red flags? Avoid cars that have been beaten to death at track events and not well cared for. Steer clear of an M3 modified by someone who selected parts from a catalog using “now-that-looks-cool” engineering. The owner should be able to give you a reasonable strategy for the changes. Of course, you’ll take a pass on cars with either a suspicious or no maintenance history. Roudel technical editor Mike Miller says, “A $15,000 M3 may just be a better buy than an $8,000 car because the more expensive car has been maintained better.”

The September 2000 issue of Classic & Sports Car magazine notes that E30 M3s are not expensive to maintain, but correcting problems caused by neglect care can be costly. “There’s only one way you can go wrong with an M3, and that’s to spend too much money on the wrong car,” the editors said. Speaking of maintenance, Thongsai quotes a price of “around $500″ for a major service including valve adjustment, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, coolant flush, new filters, and an oil change. He also recommends that you consult the M3 Special Interest Group website if you’re new to M3s (www.bimmers.com/m3/) to find someone in your area who can help you evaluate your intended purchase.

It’s All About Driving

Technical issues aside, buying an E30 M3 is a very emotional decision. “The best thing about this car is the incredible fun you have driving it; it’s a great feeling,” says Los Angeles Chapter member David Boen. England’s Autosport magazine described that feeling, observing, “an E30 M3 makes a trip to the corner store to buy milk seem like a lap around the Nüburgrin.” And a now-valuable poster distributed to German BMW dealers sums up the essence of the E30 M3 in a simple, but powerful message: 1436 Wins in 1628 Days. M3.

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Body, style and interior

There’s more than a touch of Q-car about the original M3 Aerodynamics features – front air dam, raked rear window, wing on the tail – distance it visually from a standard 3 series, but most people wouldn’t believe this unassuming saloon can hit nearly 150mph. As these cars grow older, one great virtue becoming clear; they suffer little corrosion. Although early ones weren’t quite as well rust-proofed, all M3s last incredibly well and any rot that develops is trivial. Accident damage accounts for the only significant bodyshell problems, as poor repairs trigger rust. Spotting the tell-tale signs of a shunt sometimes needs and practised eye – so it makes sense to have an expert assessment. The worst scenario is to buy; without realising it, an M3 with a twisted bodyshell or front chassis legs that are visibly out of line.

There are no problems over parts available because everything can still be obtained through BMW. Better still, the original M3 is the cheapest to run of all BMW Motorsport cars. The four-cylinder engine is simpler to maintain than BMW’s ‘six’, and so much of the running gear is pure 3 series. The car’s trickery lies not in masses of special components, but in the ingenious way that BMW contrived the design from mass-produced building blocks.

Technical and mechanics

Clever engineering created a little jewel of an engine for the M3. As found in all E30 M3s apart from the Evo III, the 2302cc four-cylinder unit shares its 93.4mm bore and 84mm stroke with BMW’s 3.5 litre ‘six’, which was used in four-valve form in the M1 and M635CSi. So it was created as essentially a four-cylinder derivative of an existing race-proven ‘six’, with a shortened version of the bigger unit’s four-valve head.

The incredible thing about this engine is its bullet-proof record, despite the ability to develop nearly 100bhp per litre and rev its heart out to 7000rpm. It’s generally cheaper to service than any BMW ‘six’ and just as robust. But the timing chain assembly must be replaced at 100,000 miles, even though this isn’t on the factory service schedule. Lots of M3 owners have learned this the hard way by having to fork out £4000 or more to rebuild an engine full of bent valves and damaged pistons. If this advice is ignored the timing chain will eventually fail without warning, sometimes when starting from cold. The chain tensioner relies purely on oil pressure, so chain backlash can occur when pressure is low and cause the chain to jump a tooth on the crankshaft sprocket. Using a relatively thick oil (10/40 Castrol GTW Magnatec is ideal) is important because the engine runs quite hot (about 100 deg C), causing the oil to ‘thin’ and encourage chain backlash. Any timing chain rattle indicates use of the wrong oil – even though it might be of high quality – not problem with chain.

Timing chain replacement sensibly goes hand-in-hand with a top-end overhaul (usually just valves and seals) and costs £2000-£2500, but the unit should then sail on for another 100,000 miles. First time round the clock there’s hardly any bore or crank wear, but some bottom-end work (crank bearings, oil pump and possibly pistons) becomes necessary at 200,000.

M3s run very rich when cold – the individual butterfly housings pour in a lot of fuel – and flood easily. Apart from the long-term effect of fuel getting into the oil and thinning it, the engine can also drop to two or three cylinders. Don’t blip the throttle: hold the revs at 2000rpm and it will slowly clear. If the car won’t start, the plugs will have to be taken out and cleaned. Hunting at low speeds is often caused by air leaks through the thick rubber block that cushions the inlet manifold. This block typically needs to be replaced every two years at a cost of about £250.

Misfires are often caused by cracks in the distributor cap or a burnt-out central electrode. On the four-branch exhaust manifold, check that each branch is secured to the block by all four studs, as these are prone to falling out or snapping off. The radiator construction, with a plastic header and metal core crimped together, can lead to leaks, indicated by white staining. There may also be signs of leaks around the water pump, which starts to develop play beyond 60,000miles. Alternator alignment changes as bushes perish and the belt can get thrown off the pulley at high revs. Optional air condition is very reliable but expensive to repair when it breaks. Check operation of the electric fan, which is single-speed before 1988 and two-speed thereafter, failures are quite common because wires can snap.

Market view

So much of the M3’s exquisite finesse as a driver’s car depends on mechanical integrity, above all on the chassis side, that it’s pointless buying a car that hasn’t been properly maintained. The good news is that most have, as the typical owner Is a knowledgeable enthusiast who’s not short of a bob or two. It’s not that an M3 is particularly expensive to maintain, but rectifying problems on a neglected one can lead to some hefty bills.

The moral, then, is to buy the best you can afford. That means spending £9500 minimum from a dealer of £8000 as private buy. Any less raises the likelihood of greater long-term expenditure on things such as suspension or gearbox synchros. As Barney Halse of Munich Legends, the principal source of wisdom for this Best Buy, says: “We won’t sell £7995 M3s, but we do repair a lot of them.” Remember, too, that £2500 needs to be set aside for timing chain renewal on any car approaching a six-figure mileage. History is important, but there are better credentials than a fully stamped service book – almost M3s were well looked after by BMW dealers in their early days. More telling is the recent pattern of maintenance and use: the better buys come from enthusiasts who sometimes choose to entrust their car to a specialist rather than a factory dealer.

Don’t be too fussy about which model to choose. One of the special editions or the ultimate 238bhp Evo Sport would be a desirable possession, but the best car to buy is the one in good condition at a fair price. Extra power and chassis tweak may be worth a few tenths of a second on the track, but a humble D-registered non-Evo is just as much fun. Long term collectability, however, favour one of the short-run derivatives. It’s necessary to be sure that an M3 will suit you. If your regard for BMWs is centred on silky-smooth, torquey six-cylinder engines, you’ll probably hate a rough, gruff little four-cylinder engines that delivers nothing much below 4000rpm. Neither is the M3 sensationally fast, because, above all, it’s a handling machine: a TVR might be better if you want a real grunt. Cabriolets are worth the most, typically fetching about £2000 more than an equivalent saloon. The purist might not like the loss of body rigidity, but there aren’t many open four-seaters to match a ragtop M3 for speed, style and handling – great for summer days out with the family or friends.

Buying in Germany, where most M3s were sold, may be an attractive idea if you know what you’re doing – especially at current exchange rates – but you could come a cropper. There are cautionary tales of £5500 M3s brought back from Germany that then need horrendous expenditure to put them right.

Conclusion

There’s only one way you can go wrong with an M3 and that’s to spend too much money on the wrong car. Bright paint and blacked-up tyres can make any tired old car look wonderful, and this happens with M3s too. A well-maintained example isn’t costly to run, but rectifying all the wear and tear on neglected cars does get expensive – and the robustness of BMWs means that some owners skimp on maintenance.

The ideal M3 is a cherished specimen, owned by an enthusiast and with good history. You’ll get a glorious driver’s car that’ll be spell-binding to hustle along your favourite roads.

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